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Friday, April 26, 2013

La Slowteria...All About the Duck

FOOD:
La Slowteria was an unexpected journey into elevated, earthy Mexican cuisine with two duck dishes as stars. The menu may redefine what many think of Mexican food. Located near the formerly toxic, now gentrifying Gowanus Canal in Carroll Gardens at 548 Court St (9th St & Garnet St) Brooklyn, NY 11231, big windows, benches, sun drenched charm, and views into the open kitchen greet you at the door.

The F and G Train return to the Smith-9th Street subway stop when it reopens on April 26, 2013. This will make getting to La Slowteria a stroll rather than a hike.

Chef Hugo Orozco Carrillo started the concept of La Slowteria in a "small eco-friendly town in the Mayan Rivera called Tulum" where he met his wife and co-owner, Stephanie Heinegg. Hugo and Stephanie's approach to the menu is rooted in the Slow Food Movement.

The clean open design with,an abudance of beams and wood with tropical Mexican details through-out, is a breath of fresh air on the edges of the Gowanus. La Slowteria is building out the backyard garden for warm weather dining and leisurely afternoons with fresh juices, coffee and wi fi.

The whole vibe of the restaurant team is upbeat and engaged with a luxury tropical resort ambiance, unusual for NYC for sure. 

Duck is the hard to find, forgotten poultry unless eating at an Asian or French restaurant. On La Slowteria's menu, duck makes an appearance as a hearty appetizer and as a substantial, innovative entree.
La Maceta, pulled drunken duck sandwich 
The La Maceta, is an appetizer that easily doubles as a small entree, paired with another appetizer, like La Slowteria's Long Island oysters served with Mezcal worm salt and a slow-burn green habanero chili sauce, you are on the way to a memorable meal. The La Maceta is a slow cooked pulled duck sandwich with cabbage salad and crisply sauteed potatoes. It's served in a rich consomme broth. Might be even better with the broth on side, frech dip style, but never the less the combination of flavors and textures is fantastic.
El Negrito, deconstructed black mole sauce with duck
The El Negrito is a recipe that Chef Hugo has been perfecting for several years.  El Negrito is a meaty confit style leg braised to falling off the bone topped with a sliver of toast garnish (throwing in another texture). The dish has numerous combos for every bite, because of the composed presentation of the El Negrito - a bite of this and a bite of that mixing and matching - a new treat with each fork full.  The flavors, together on the tongue, create an incredible mole experience with rich, succulent duck . The hearty, El Negrito is beautifully presented as are all dishes sampled and seen from the small open kitchen. 

Hugo's high-end skill and artistry is evident before taking the first bite - beautiful plating. The kitchen is truly center stage with no fourth wall and an unobstructed view of much of the dining area and cozy bar. Stephanie and Hugo keep things flowing, moving seamlessly from kitchen to dining room. 


The smoky Mezcal margarita with a chile pepper worm salt rim is dry and refreshing. Made simply with fresh squeezed juices. Sip. Imagine sitting on the beach in Tulum.

La Slowteria is the perfect tropical oasis for a get-away-in-the-city.
La Slowteria
548 Court St, New York, NY 11231
Tue - Sun
11 am - 3 pm (sunny cafe, with fresh juices and wifi)
5 pm - 10 pm (dinner - with outdoor dining starting May 2013)
Enjoy,
Cooking Lounge

photos: wbj